By MIKE CHAIKEN
Say the word “lingerie” and some minds drift toward more prurient thoughts of “unmentionables” or Victoria’s Secret amazons walking across the runways on national television in garments that are more conceptual than wearable.
But last month’s Lingerie Fashion Week at Canoe Studios on the Chelsea side of New York City showed there is more to the word, “lingerie” than meets the eye.
FYI by Dani Read, which was shown in a presentation setting, offered up its collection called “Muse of the Violet.” The pieces were more representative of the art side of lingerie. They were very aggressive, reminding me of punk-era fashion and a hint of “50 Shades of Grey” with details such as brass-plated buckles, leather adornments, zippers, and chains. The collection very much demanded attention… shouting, “Look at me.” And it was as much about fashion as anything that might have walked the runways at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week a few weeks earlier.
The other softer, feminine, luxurious side, of lingerie arrived in the form of Naked Princess. In its runway show, the line offered up a few tiny, racy pieces. But the sets were definitely on the more feminine side of the equation, designed to make women feel comfortable with themselves rather than seduce the attention of a man. There were some luxurious pajama sets, long nightgowns worthy of a classic Hollywood film, and robes that offered the right amount of coverage without encompassing the expanse of a mumu.
Additionally, at Lingerie Fashion Week, The Lingerie Journal tapped several brands that are “Ones to Watch.” Lola Haze, for example, showed a pretty hand-painted camisole top. Arsenic and Vielles offered a set of bra, panties, and garter that looked straight out of Paris in the 1930s, with its exquisite detail work and fine, sheer fabric. Iris also offered up a set with satiny sheen and feminine details.
Lingerie Fashion Week is new on the sartorial scene in the city, marking its second year. But it smartly shows a sense of breadth and history of the fashion art form dubbed “lingerie.”
PHOTOS by MIKE CHAIKEN